1996 Chevy 3500 Dually Lifted

1996 Chevy 3500 Dually Lifted – I am in the process of putting 3 new tires on my 1996 Chevy 6.5 TD 2WD double. I have to replace one of the circles because it is bent and swings from side to side. I stumbled upon this set of rims and found that they are actually 19.5 rims and tires from a dual-show Chevy truck. I have read that some of the 19.5 tires are more difficult to balance than the 16 “tires. I have also seen that the replacement cost for 1.5 tires is double the cost of my 16” tires ($ 1400 versus $ 700). If I don’t get the 19.5 wheels and tires, I’m trying to put 4 16 “Eagle alloy wheels on the truck.

The asking price for 19.5 wheels and tires is $ 600 compared to a used set of double alloy Eagle wheels for $ 300 plus the $ 300 I’m paying for the other 3 new tires.

1996 Chevy 3500 Dually Lifted

I put 19.5 on my F350 and am happy with them. I love how the truck tows (heavy) with them.

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But unloaded / not towed, the truck goes more bumpy. And, since I don’t drive the truck very often, I find that the tires I use tend to deflate.

The 19.5s are commercial tires and designed for very high mileage, reliability. But they are heavy, you will feel the driving difference. You may also notice a decrease in fuel consumption as you are rocking a heavier rotating mass and the braking power may also decrease slightly.

Most of the time I use the truck to haul the Beetle up to the launch pad 1 mile away. I could do 1000 truck miles a year. If I’m not towing something, I get wood or something from Home Depot

My truck sits low in the front, so I’m wondering if these 19.5 wheels would fit too. I have about 5 inches of free space in the front above the tire with the LT235 / 85R16 on it now.

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You can probably go a little bigger and be fine, but that will require you to adjust the speedometer settings. There are a couple of options for this, the simplest would be a portable tuner from DiabloSport or HyperTech. (I assume they make one for the 6.5TD. If not, a dealer can reprogram the overall diameter of the tire.)

I RUN 19.5 TIRES ON MY DUALLY f350 F degree of load. It can get higher loads even as G. The smallest of these is between 32 and 31 “in diameter. I handle the smaller size myself as they were basically the same diameter as the stock tires. A smaller size than the UPS trucks work. really like them.

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Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site implies your consent to the Terms of Use. 1996 CHEVY 3500 DUALLY, EXTENDED CAB, 4X4, LEATHER, WINDOWS / ELECTRIC DOORS, 6.5 DIESEL ENGINE, GOOSENECK, 211, 120 MIGLIA, VIN 1GCHK39F2TE263152

Chevrolet C3500 Pickup

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Are you looking for more than one vehicle? Run as many reports as you want for 21 days Unlimited reports for 21 days $ 44.99 I am purchasing a 96 GMC double extended cab c3500 with a 7.4 liter 4.10 trans auto rear. I’ve been trying to see what the maximum the truck can pull using a gooseneck and bumper trailers. These are the types I will use. I’m going to put a trans radiator and a trans temperature gauge on it. Have a brand new 454 and also a rebuilt trans for the truck. Can anyone tell me what is the maximum weight I can pull? Or any updates I can do to tow more?

Cowboytrukr said: Welcome to the Forum. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1996-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf Check out this link for what you are looking for. Click to expand … Thanks that helps a lot! Do you know of any updates I could do to get more out of it? Like the suspension, the engine or the transmission?

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Before I get into the rabbit hole of engine upgrades, I’d see what the brakes are capable of handling. This will be an important limiting safety factor. What can you actually stop in an emergency?

OpalLacod said: Before I went into the rabbit hole of the engine upgrades, I would have seen what the brakes can handle. This will be an important limiting safety factor. What can you actually stop in an emergency? Click to expand … Tried to do the rear disc brake conversion. The truck already has a hydraboost system on it. I will probably never haul what this max truck is, but I want to know if I pull so much safely. So I want to do little things that will increase the maximum I can tow just to feel safe

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I have hydroboost in my 2500HD. I love it. Lots of power and safety knowing that I can stop if I have to even with my camper in the bed and the boat on the towbar.

Cowboytrukr said: I have hydroboost in my 2500HD. I love it. Lots of power and safety knowing that I can stop if I have to even with my camper in the bed and the boat on the towbar. Click to expand … Yes, stopping is much more enjoyable. Especially if you also pull a trailer with the brakes

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To begin with, I’d like to ascertain what your rig’s GVWR and GCWR actually are. These are normally found on the driver’s door or on the door pillar. Just keep in mind that “Pin Weight” and “Tongue Weight” are calculated based on your GVWR and the GVWR is a collective figure based on what the suspension, brakes, frame, chassis and axles will withstand. The occupants and loaded contents of the truck also count towards the GVWR. A 2WD will always have a higher GVWR than a 4WD. 99% of the time you will reach your maximum GVWR before approaching the maximum GCWR.

DW said: To begin with, I would like to ascertain what your rig’s GVWR and GCWR actually are. These are normally found on the driver’s door or on the door pillar. Just keep in mind that “Pin Weight” and “Tongue Weight” are calculated based on your GVWR and the GVWR is a collective figure based on what the suspension, brakes, frame, chassis and axles will withstand. The occupants and loaded contents of the truck also count towards the GVWR. A 2WD

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