3rd Gen Cummins Dually Lifted

3rd Gen Cummins Dually Lifted – I put the car in SRW 3500. I’ve looked for a 6 speed twice and the closest quote was a 37. It’s a little rough, but it works well, shifts well, no rust or bare metal. 185 km. I bought it with the intention of taking it off the lift and using it to put on and pull more comfortable sized tires. My wife doesn’t like my schedule. He wants me to leave it like that. I have a 32′ bumper pull trailer ~11k lbs. loaded and we go to WV several times a year. It’s about 700 miles with some decent hills. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar setup problem. G56, 37s on 3.73 gears and stock wheels. Not an elevator problem. I towed the trailer with my other truck for years with the same lift and 38s, but it has a 4.88 and 48RE.

It will be better at a slower speed. You may want to wake up at 90-100 or not text as much.

3rd Gen Cummins Dually Lifted

As you may already know, the lift and construction of the 37-inch truck make for a tow. A significant increase in height, increased rotating mass along with a 3.73/37″ combo will greatly reduce performance, including brakes. I absolutely hate performance damage, especially for idle. I hate pulling 11K in the mountains with a 37 and 3.73. Installed or If you insist on pulling it down, I’ll re-equip it.

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Zero steering Start at the pole. Work up to the tires. Steering Box (The most important thing you can do is the steering wheel)

Adjust the steering wheel so that it returns to the single weight value (it goes through three scales: the first is tensioned, the second is not. Third, drop the trailer and go again.)

Scale tickets for determining the tire pressure of trucks. Stay within the limits of the door placards and use the Load Range E Load & Pressure table. Use values ​​from the fixed configuration (version 4 or later)

I have been pulling travel trailers since 1973. The current device is my bone stock. Typically 17,000 pounds are combined.

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Now 225k. 120k per brake. New Ujoints at 160k. Tires last over 100k. Original clip. Everything else is original. (But now it’s time: work to be done).

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Highways are hardly as good as cars. He is very prone to danger and high risk-taking. Not acceptable at speeds above 65.

The biggest issue is that the 37-12.50’s on the thin 6″ wide strip not only look stupid (well, to each their own), but they don’t quite match the tire for their width. Borderline safety, IMO.

Get the wider wheels (double though $$$) and/or narrower tires. By doing so, you’ll end up with a 34-35″ wheel that will pull better than a 37-3″.

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I wouldn’t go wider than 285 on stock wheels, even that width seems reasonable, but 285-75-17 would help. They are still 35 years old, so don’t look too bad with a lift and look closer to the correct width.

Stocka steels are cheap and popular tire sizes like 255-80-17. If you don’t tow year-round, I’d consider getting a set of oversized wheels. Or some 19.5s.

I hope all concerned are well with the result of deciding that this looks like a reasonably good place to test drive a four-wheel drive. and the fingers went through the trailer and made it thin

Big wheels on leather wheels are my main concern. I’m not a fan, but I don’t think it’s as bad as some of the extended tires on wide wheels I see all the time. The guy before me probably had no problem. Drove from TX to VA and traded. The 19.5’s seem like the only good option other than discounting, but they are out of my price range and ride like doodoo.

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I already bought new steering linkage and new brakes for all four corners. I guess once I get all the gear up to 100% I’ll pull the wagon up and see how it works before spending more money.

Loki223 said: I hope you’re wondering what would make Ortacha decide that this looks like a good place to test drive a four wheeler. and fingers crossed trailer Click to expand… All was well. Average seemed like a better option than the rear end of a car that cut me off and slammed on the brakes. Everything in the trailer stayed where it should have been. The only damage is to my pride and a small kink in the lower front corner of the rear axle.

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Slow motion: Miss the elevator. Michelin LTX or Bridgestone Duravis tires. The size of a stock. Zero steering Start at the pole. Work up to the tires. Steering Box (The most important thing you can do is hard steering) New anti-roll bars. Poly bushings for Bilstein shocks. Super Steer Rear Panhard Rod (Track Bar) MoPar Premium Line Brake Parts Direclink Brake Master ProPride Shock. Adjust the governor axis to return to the single weight value (three scales go through: first is tensioned, second is not. Third, drop trailer and go again.) Trailer with full fuel, full fresh water and propane. All passengers on board. Scale tickets for determining the tire pressure of trucks. Stay within the limits of the door placards and use the Load Range E Load & Pressure table. Use the values ​​of the fixed mounting bracket (4th or later) Any cat scale. Get the phone app. $12 for starters, $2 for weight and every gear, every time. I have been pulling travel trailers since 1973. The current device is my bone stock. Typically 17,000 pounds are combined. 14-16/mpg in South Central US Now 225k. 120k per brake. New Ujoints at 160k. Tires last over 100k. Original clip. Everything else is original. (But now it’s time: work to be done). Change the TT suspension type to Dexter Tor-Flex. Add disc brake (TUSON). Highways are hardly as good as cars. He is very prone to danger and high risk-taking. Not acceptable at speeds above 65. Both vehicles feature excellent brakes, Hensley patent shocks and “perfect” truck handling. 2WD mines and mines with peonies. Is yours solid? (This is your goal). Tell your wife about the best trips (the highway travel part) that are so memorable, they are instantly forgotten. Do so. Click to expand…

Drove the trailer to WV and drove about 350 miles back with some hills. The truck didn’t hurt at all, I guess I didn’t worry about anything. I still want to get rid of the lift, but it looks like I’ll have to wait until the wheels on it are used.

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Sebastian f7 said: Umm what? There are many people who travel hundreds of thousands of miles in loaded trucks without any problems. A good brake controller (proportional) is a good sway bar mount for your camper. Knowing how to use your brake controller is great. Click to expand…

A real challenge takes one. Accidents and road accidents. Making more of an unstable vehicle is a dead wrong.

Backup for the driveway…I’d rather have the R gear, especially when I need to get a bit of wind to get around the house and not hit the fence.

It would be good to know which 6th gear you have, I have an early 06, an 05 built in and a slower AKA higher RPM 6th…I heard the latter is a faster 6th.

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Jumping here as I took my first shot with the 06 mega I just bought. He was also lifted up.

You should see one or two links for the steering column. This will be my first job to tighten the steering wheel.

37 to 35 I started driving back from TX the day I bought the truck. Load range E and lighter. Yes.

A trucking accident should only happen once.

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Anyway, last week I towed a trailer around town with no trailer brakes on straight roads, I didn’t go above 55 and had no problems until I got on the sidewalks and the trailer started shaking.

I saw a comment here about knowing how to use the brake controller. Teach me something here.

The trailer I will be buying this week has brakes and

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